New York Fashion Week 2013 – In which BCBG Max Azria layers layers and Marc Jacobs steals the Sun
This year in New York one and one alone stood out for me as the collection of the season. That of BCBG Max Azria. With a decidedly gypsy-meets-leandra medine feel, the models stomped the runway in insanely beautiful sheer-ish silk slip dresses layered with what I can only describe as knee-high leather leg-warmers (…?), a variety of biker and baseball style jackets in various jaquards and furs. In a meeting of inspirations, the silk slips take their prints from the architecture of Istanbul while the slouchy knits and beanies take their cue from the neo-grunge trend currently stalking the streets like it’s Nineteen Ninety Four all over again.
The second show that caught my attention was the ‘not-so-subtly-stolen-concept’ seen at Marc Jacobs, where Olafur Eliasson’s The Weather Project previously seen at the Tate in London, was applied to the expansive Armoury at Lexington Avenue. While the lighting had an interesting desaturating effect on the clothes, I expected something a bit more original with the usual splash of irony from him. I felt like the models had a look of ‘walk-of-shame-after-a-night-of-passion-with-Edward-Scissorhands’ and the clothes themselves were just so-so, drawing on 1970’s hot pants, metallic fabrics, sequins and fur. Shapes were simple with outfits comprising pencil skirts, slim-knits and evening coats. This was a much more subdued collection than usual, however I will give a nod of amusement to the cartoon-like fox stoles and the model who forgot her top.
The original Olafur Eliasson installation at the Tate
all runway images via style.com and pursuitist.com because my invitations got lost in the post. Blame Nemo.